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10215 Wincopin Circle, Columbia

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French | Howard County | $$

This gem is often overshadowed by its older Baltimore sibling. And that’s a shame. I think the Howard County outpost is even more appealing. There’s a lot of posturing at the Roland Park Petit Louis — by the diners, not the excellent waitstaff. On my last visit, my neighbor insisted on speaking French to the staff all night. In Columbia, the crowd is more egalitarian, though it’s easy to get caught up in the Parisian vibe. The restaurant’s Belle-Epoque decor, with plush reds, gilded accouterments, marble and rich woods, makes you feel like you’ve landed in the middle of the City of Lights. And while Lake Kittamaqundi may not be the Seine, the scenic waterfront view is a bonus. (Baltimore Sun Best Restaurants 2016)